Farewell Kokoda

We're still getting up early in the morning, although at least we don't have to worry about long hours on our legs anymore. Today we're getting an early start to travel by truck to Popondetta for our flight back to Port Moresby. Conditions permitting (with the roads and rivers) we'll make good time and be able to make a few stops along the way to the memorial at Popondetta and Bomana War Cemetery at Port Moresby.

Packed up and finished breakfast quickly we're loaded up into the back of the trucks for a bone crunching rattling trip to Popondetta that will be several hours. I've taken the precaution of bringing an inflatable pillow with me to protect my derriere (in hind site a win decision). Although we're not on our legs trekking today, everyone is still sore from all the previous days, having a buffer to the jolting of this truck ride is much better than aggravating already sore and worn out bums and legs.

I find Jimmy one last time before I get onto the truck and say goodbye. I really appreciated all of his help over the last 8 days and even though he was not my personal porter he was always there to help. This is only his 4th job on the track helping as a porter and I hope that he gets more opportunities in the future for work.

All loaded up and ready to go!



The trip back from Kokoda to Popondetta is a bit unknown depending on the conditions. Until recent years a lot of the river crossings had no bridges and depending on the height of the river you'd have to be ferried across individually out of the truck. Thankfully for us there were a few more bridges (big makeshift bridges built on top of cargo containers all lined up and sandbagged in place) and the remaining rivers were low, so we had no problems having to stop.

Here's a couple of snaps and a video out the back of the truck. Driving away from those massive mountains ranges, it was hard to imagine that we'd just made our way over them - even now, even having completed the trek, they still look so formidable.




A few observations from our truck trip back to Popondetta as we travelled through some smaller villages and passed the locals and also children on their way to school.

• Everyone was in general really friendly, waving and saying hello to the passing trucks. I actually got a really sore arm from waving hello back - in the end I had to stop - lol..

• The locals have the most beautiful smiles, but there were so many adults as well as children who had lost that beautiful smile. In it's place were bleeding gums, blood red smiles and either few or no teeth. The side effects of too much betel nut. Although a popular past time in Papua New Guinea (as well as other Asian cultures) betel nut last year was made illegal. Read more on Betel Nut

• Machetes - there were quite a few locals carrying them on the track (from when you saw and took notice), but it was rather different seeing so many kids travelling off to school also carrying them. From what I believe they're also on sale at the local supermarket. Not that there was a hint of any trouble or adverse situation - it was just such a different world.

We made great time back to Popondetta and we were able to stop in at the local memorial there, but unfortunately not for long as we had an estimated time for our flight and we had to be at the airport soon. Here's a couple of pictures of the memorial - it consisted of a few display cases, plaques and artillery guns.





After a quick stop off we rush to the airport to catch our flight, which was running a couple of hours late.. hahaha.. The airport was definitely working on island time and after getting there in a hurry to make our flight we had a good wait until our flight actually arrived. The wait went pretty slow and the clock was ticking, the longer we were delayed, the less chance we had of making the Bomana War Cemetery in Port Moresby.

Finally our plane arrived and off we were back to Port Moresby



Straight from the airport at Port Moresby we go to the Bomana War Cemetery. It was quite a weird experience to be walking through there, passed all the graves of those who fought and died in the fighting. Especially having only a day prior been living somewhat part of what they had experienced on the track.

Here's some pictures of the Bomana War Cemetery, it was kept remarkably beautiful.









To my knowledge I had no relatives that fought or died here, but I looked up the register to see anyway just to make sure so that I could go and visit their grave - the closest I found was a Wiggins. (not related) Instead, we had a map of the cemetery and I sought out a few of the graves of the soldiers who I have learnt about over the course of this journey.




All finished up at the Bomana War Cemetery we head back to Port Moresby and the Holiday Inn. For me some food and a quick nap are on the agenda and then I'm hoping to go and visit some of the local markets to see if there's any good souvenirs (I've already bought a bag and hat along the track, but it's nice to have a few more mementos and some gifts to bring home.

Also on the agenda for a lot of people is to clean their boots and bags and remove the mud from them as that's a quarantine risk coming back into Australia. I didn't have to worry about my boots as I left them as a gift to Jimmy, but my bag did have a little bit (but not much mud on it) I gave it a quick wipe down to make sure the dirt wasn't excessive, but I probably should have been a bit more thorough.

In the end I was lucky to make the markets as stupidly I didn't set an alarm.. but I woke up in just enough time to catch up with the others who has already left. They had some pretty good stuff, the usual bags and hats, but there was also some pictures and paintings as well as baskets and other hand crafts. I'm not really good at bartering, but think I did okay. I picked up a nice painting as well as some more bags and hats as gifts.

Then it was celebration times! We had an early dinner and then it was time for a few drinks. Here's a picture of the team :) I'm surprised how awake everyone looks.. although that did not last too long and most people retired early.. keen for a sleep in a nice comfortable hotel bed, rather than on the ground in a tent :)




The next morning was our last early rise for our plane trip back to Australia. - Farewell Kokoda

Wrap Up

This has been such an amazing journey and experience. I definitely recommend this adventure to anyone that has ever thought of doing it, but hasn't, or even for those who haven't, but have been interested by my blog. Even for those that don't think they would be able to do it, for health reasons or age - the only barriers that hold you back are those you put up yourselves. This adventure is very doable and the trekking company ensures to the best of their ability that you will make it. Put the training in - you will surprise yourself and you will not be disappointed.

Here's one final video of our trek that was posted by one of the girls in the other team who was raising money for lifeline, it's has really awesome map of our route to some of the wonderful local singing! :)



For more information don't forget to look up some of the books that I have suggested through out the blog, or even if you want do some research and find yourself another book. There's quite a few out there from different perspectives and I think each in their own way would have great information on what happened here.

There's also the ABC documentary called Kokoda that has quite a lot of information. Personally I bought a copy, but someone has uploaded it to Youtube if you are interested.

Kokoda - abc Documentary

One final thank you to all of my sponsors that help me get her to help raise money for The Sir David Martin Foundation - In the end I raised $8,000 ($4,000 kindly matched by RESIMAC) and I know that every cent will go to help youth in need. I hope that I've been able to help you experience my journey and learn more of what happened here. I must admit, I can't believe how much I didn't know and that I've now learnt and I really want to learn more.

Thank you:

RESIMAC Financial Services
Go Dance / AILD
Navwealth
Rapid Personal Training
State Custodians
Paywise
Paul Denny Conveyancing
Wayseware Pty Ltd

Please feel free to contact me in person, via Facebook or through the blog if you have any questions about my trip or for advice if you're thinking about doing it yourself.

Thanks,

Wiggy

Day 8 - Alolo Village to Kokoda

Wow, I can't believe it. This is the last trekking day that we have on the track. On one hand it's come so quickly and on the other hand it has not come quickly enough. It's amazing how much the continual exertion of trekking each day takes out of you - especially when you're also lugging a full back pack around.

It's such a beautiful morning and with the majority of the trekking today being down hill I'm looking forward to today being a little easier than most other days on the trek. Here's a beautiful picture of the sunrise. The little building on the left is the Village Church and I'd guess to say that the really mini one on the right is something like the little rations hut that was in Naduri Village (where a portion of farming is stored to offer travellers in need)



Everyone is set and ready to head off, but before we go Peter is celebrating his birthday today, so he receives a special birthday song from the crew and team.



Off we set! I was a bit naïve thinking that today may be a little easier.. and down hill - hah! Yeah right! Although, we were ultimately descending by the end of the day, we were following the contour of the mountain around and as such it was still quite an undulating path with plenty of inclines and declines.

I must admit, I probably enjoyed trekking today the least of all the days on the track. I think my mind had already started to switch off as we were so close to Kokoda, unfortunately that's not quite the same as actually being at Kokoda. The path around the mountain side was quite narrow, muddy and slippery and there was a lot of overgrowth from the sides which made it difficult to see where you were placing your feet.

This was extremely frustrating as it meant a lot of slipping and tripping on roots and rocks. Not to mention really sore feet, also from stepping on roots and rocks. I think that I preferred some of the much harder terrain from previous days; at least you were able to see where you were placing your feet and adjust accordingly.

Here's a couple of pictures of the terrain that we were trekking.



There were also some more great little obstacles with trees :)



We're passing through one of the major battle sites today on our way to Kokoda. If you remember back on Day 4 (when heading out of Menari there was the airfield where Colonel Honner addressed the 39th) I wrote quite a lot about the lead up to and start of the fighting in Papua New Guinea. Isurava was where our militia held the Japanese forces for weeks, whilst being out numbered. This is where we get to visit today. I don't think that there was much fighting here during the advance as the Japanese had retreated all the way to the coast, but importantly it allowed our forces to recover those who had fallen.

Before we reach the battle site we come to the Isurava Rest House and a site know as Surgeons Rock. This was a big flat rock which was used during the war as an operating table. Casualties were carried back up from the battle site where they could receive medical attention.

Surgeons Rock is also the location where a well know soldier Butch Bisset died. If you have a chance to read Field Guide to the Kokoda Track the book (dedicated to his brother Stan Bisset) has some great information on the brothers and the role they played in the history of the Kokoda Track. Stan (who was also a Wallabies International) played a particularly prominent role.

Read more Stan Bisset and	Read more Butch Bisset

Here's a plaque that is dedicated to Butch Bisset situated right next to Surgeons Rock.



Gareth had prepared something a little special for us whilst we were visiting here. In the memory of all of those who had lost their lives on this rock he had printed out a version of "Oh Danny Boy" which we sang together - or rather tried to. It's quite a moving song at the best of times - but was even more so given where we were.

Oh Danny Boy

 

Oh Danny boy, the pipes, the pipes are calling

From glen to glen, and down the mountain side

The summer's gone, and all the flowers are dying

'Tis you, 'tis you must go and I must bide.

 

But come ye back when summer's in the meadow

Or when the valley's hushed and white with snow

'Tis I'll be here in sunshine or in shadow

Oh Danny boy, oh Danny boy, I love you so.

 

And if you come, when all the flowers are dying

And I am dead, as dead I well may be

You'll come and find the place where I am lying

And kneel and say an "Ave" there for me.

 

And I shall hear, tho' soft you tread above me

And all my dreams will warm and sweeter be

If you'll not fail to tell me that you love me

I'll simply sleep in peace until you come to me.

 

I'll simply sleep in peace until you come to me.

Here's a picture of me at Surgeons Rock



After Surgeons Rock we continued our way down to Isurava, where there's a big memorial in honour of those who both fought and lost their lives here. It was such a beautiful view, but there was nothing beautiful about the decent. It was just as difficult as the rest of the track and it must've been really hard to transport the wounded from the fighting back up to the Rest House (or Surgeons Rock).



The memorial at Isurava was definitely something to remember, it was simply breath taking, and although much of the area had now been cleared (at least at the site) it was still hard to imagine the intense fighting that occurred here.

Here's a picture of the memorial from the front with such a beautiful scenic backdrop. At the forefront there are the two flag poles for the Australian and Papua New Guinea flags, followed by a plaque dedication at the centre and finally backed by the four pillars of the ANZAC fighting spirit. Courage, Endurance, Mateship, Sacrifice was a motto born out of World War I, but many believe that it was really and truly epitomized at Kokoda.



Courage, Endurance, Mateship, Sacrifice - a great YouTube tribute.

Here's a team photo of everyone at the memorial. As well as of the plaque in the centre and of the four pillars. (Taken from the far right pillar Sacrifice you are able to see the other three pillars in the reflection.)





The battle at Isurava was one of the hardest fought by Australians during the war and it not only delayed the Japanese from their objective of Port Moresby it also inflicted heavy losses. It was instrumental in our ultimate victory and it's significance is definitely displayed in the memorial.

Read more on Isurava

There's was a lot to take in here, too much to mention, but I would like to mention Private Bruce Kingsbury VC who was the first serviceman to be awarded the Victoria Cross in Australian Territory. (Remember Papua New Guinea was classified as Part of Australian territory at the time so that's how our militia were even sent there) During a heavy onslaught Kingsbury (part of the AIF reinforcing our militia) took two Bren Guns and charged straight into the oncoming Japanese troops firing from the hips. Although Kingsbury was killed by a sniper (whilst stopping to reload his guns) - he himself killed as many as 30 Japanese soldiers and demoralised the remaining Japanese, forcing them to scatter. His actions inspired the Australian Battalions to force the Japanese back.

Later accounts from Japanese soldiers after the war describe a man [Kingsbury] charging through their lines, inflicting heavy casualties. This was significant because up until fighting the Australians, the Japanese had never encountered any real defence or resistance from their enemies, let alone the courage and sacrifice displayed by the Australians. The Japanese were used to intimidating the opposition and steamrolling over them by bombarding their defences with wave after wave of unrelenting attacks - a tactic that failed against the Australians. This caused the Japanese to think more about their attacks and certainly take longer to plan them, something that helped the Australians.

Here's a plaque dedicated to Private Kingsbury near to where he fell in battle.



Read more on Private Kingsbury

Further on from Isurava and we're on the homeward stretch, but it's been pretty tough trekking in the heat up until now, so it's time for a lunch stop. Pretty much all of the rest of the trek to Kokoda is along dirt road, which although is not difficult, it still exposed to the heat and sun, so it's best to rest up and recover now for the last leg of our journey.

It was still such a beautiful day, but the sun beating down made it a challenge, regardless of the terrain.. hmmm where's a beach in this weather?



Where we stopped at lunch was at the most beautiful little village with a massive water hole (pool) that all the locals were swimming in and enjoying themselves to escape the heat, especially the kids.

Here's a quick picture of everyone arriving at lunch and getting ready for a swim. Believe me, it didn't take too long for the packs and boots to come off and for bodies to become submerged in the water. Just to our right was a stream that was flowing beautiful cold, fresh water - feeding into the water hole a little further below.



It was getting pretty hot by now and the dip in the water was definitely required to be able to cool the body temperature down. Not to mention getting a little food into us to help refuel our tired bodies. We had about another hour and a half trekking out in the heat and now was not the time to have a blow out - not this close.

The final leg of the terrain was pretty much flat (well compared to what we were used to) and even though it was open dirt road exposed to the heat, you could almost smell the finish. The auto pilot was set and off we went.

In the end I think we made pretty good time, just over an hour to get to Kokoda - I think everyone by then was running on adrenaline and there's nothing to hold you back. You can see by the picture that it was also still quite muddy and rocky, but the visibility was much better than earlier coming down the mountain so it wasn't nearly so hard as you could see where you were stepping.



Coming into Kokoda the surroundings definitely got a lot greener and lusher - here's the difference.

THE FINISH!!!!!!!

 

It was all a little bit surreal, coming in on the final leg of the journey, tired and weary from the trek. It was really just still sinking in that we had made it and what a gruelling and amazing experience the past 8 days on the track had been. Here's a video of us coming up to the finish. It was amazing to have started the journey with such a wonderful team of people and for everyone to complete it together, It was pretty funny though, everyone trudging across the line with not much energy left. :)

 

 

We'd made it, but before we could relax we quickly dumped all of our stuff at the campsite and headed off to see if the museum at Kokoda was open or not. I'm not sure that there was set opening or closing times, so it was just luck of the draw when you turned up.





Read more about Bert Kienzle - The Architect of Kokoda.

The museum was a small little setup with a few little bits and pieces. There were some old weapons etc.., but mainly there were a lot of display cases with historical information about the whole Kokoda Campaign.

Here's a tribute to the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels as well as some pictures of the first Papuan Infantry Battalion (PIB).




There was quite a lot of documentary evidence from the actual time, photos, information. It was really quite interesting. Some of the information I have seen on the web, or read in books, but there is nothing quite like being here.




Finally, here's an intact machine gun and mortar. I picked the machine gun up an it weighed a tonne! The rifle I had picked up on Day 5 in the museum at Efogi had weighed enough, but this was something completely different.



Just outside the museum there was the Kokoda Memorial. It was quite beautiful also and had various different pillars in memory of various aspects of the fighting. I had to throw the picture of me in, it was amazing to be here. This is my version of the Oh what a feeling jump - without the jump because I'm too tired! :)





Here's the rest of the pillars up a little closer.

The first on the left in in memory of the fallen VC recipients. In the middle of the pillar is a dedication to Private Kinsgbury. The second is in memory of the capture of Kokoda and the subsequent fighting which saw Allied troops eventually defeat the Japanese in 1943



The third is a tribute to the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels, without whose help the outcome of the fighting may have been very different. Finally, the last pillar is in memory of all those persons that perished during fighting, whether friend or foe, military or civilian.



Now, it was time to collapse and die :) well maybe not die, but definitely get off these burning and aching feet and relax. Back we head to camp to get unpacked, cleaned up and rested. Everyone is just so exhausted. Not much really went on for the rest of the day, or maybe I just can't remember as I was too tired to absorb anything going on.

We had our normal 6 o'clock news, talked about the day and what was planned for tomorrow and we organised to have a thankyou and farewell to the crew, where we could as a team and individually thank all of the porters and our individual porters respectively for all of their help during the trek. The crew really do play a role as Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels by being there and helping you, even sometimes when you don't realise it, or take it for granted, they're always still there helping.

Here's a picture of our group porters whilst Gareth was thanking them as well as a picture of me with Jimmy. I didn't have an individual porter as I carried my own pack, but Jimmy quite often still help me out on the difficult parts of the journey.



One more early rise on the track tomorrow for our journey back to Port Moresby. We're to travel by truck to Popondetta where we catch a plane back to Port Moreby. Time permitting it's possible we can see another Memorial at Popondetta as well as the Bomana War Cemetery at Port Moresby.

Here's the trekking we did for the day